Saturday, May 13, 2017

More Shootaz! And a Paintin' Tutorial

I have added 10 more Shoota Boyz to my existing mob this week, bringing the whole lot to 20 some odd models. Or, a proper-sized mob as you might call it. I had planned on doing this during 7th edition 40k as shooting was so much bigger a part of the game than assaulting, and I hope its the right decision for 8th edition (which I am eagerly looking forward to).

10 more jerks to join da scrum!
I also painted up another Nob to bring my Nobz mob up to 9 models and a Warboss. I think I'll add one more for an even 10 down the road.

A very slight conversion of making the power claw right
handed and the pistol in the left. Yeah, I still feel dumb
for not puttying that arm seam. Dag.

While sharing this guy on Facebook, I was asked for an Ork tutorial so I guess this guy is as good as any to show it on. Build the model and add sand to the base first. I always prime Orks black and then attach the assembled model with a touch of superglue onto a little painting post so I can hold that and not touch the model as I work.

Step 1: Basecoating
Skin - Vallejo Heavy Grey (sort of an Olive drab)
Pants - P3 Coal Black
Boots/Straps/Cloth - Vallejo Charred Brown
White Areas - paint GW Ushabti Bone over the Brown
Metals - GW Leadbelcher for silver and Vallejo Bright Bronze for gold
Step 2: Shading
Give the entire model a coat of
Army Painter Strong Tone Ink.
This step is really best done before you go to bed for the night, or
go out shopping, or play Diablo for hours, or whatever it is you do
where you aren't staring at a model and waiting for ink to dry.
It takes a good hour or two for this stuff to dry.
Step 3: Bringing the Color back up
Drybrush silver metals with GW Runefang Steel.
Give the lower areas of gold a thinned down wash of P3 Brown Ink.
Leather areas are highlighted with Vallejo Dark Flesh.
White areas are painted with a coat of GW Ushabti Bone.
Skin is given a coat of Vallejo Heavy Grey, leaving some recessed
areas in shadow.
Step 4: Highlighting
Drybrush the gold areas with a little GW Auric Armor Gold.
Mix 50/50 Vallejo Skeleton White with GW Ushabti Bone and highlight
the edges of white areas.
Mix 50/50 Vallejo Heavy Grey with GW Ushabti Bone and highlight
the musculature of the skin.
Step 5: Details
Add checker board pattern with P3 Coal Black.
Dot laser eye and tubes on Power Klaw with Vallejo Red.
Add some final skin Highlights on the lips and jaw with
25/75 Vallejo Heavy Grey and GW Ushabti Bone mix.
Step 6: Almost there!
Wash very thinned down Vallejo Red over the lips and mouth.
Drybrush the base with P3 Greatcoat Grey.
When dry, randomly drybrush some areas on the base with
GW Trollslayer Orange. 
Step 7: Tidying Up
Paint fangs and nails with GW Zamesi Desert.
Add red stripes with Vallejo Red.
Add a dot of GW Trollslayer Orange into robit eye.
Drybrush bash with GW Adminustratum Grey
Step Done: Being Done
Add a highlight of GW Ushabti Bone to fangs and claws.
Trim the base with Vallejo Black.
Add a tuft of grass using Gamergrass tuft and a dot of superglue.
Then go crush in the name of Gork. Or Mork. Or both.
I don't tell you how to live your life.

Yep. And dat's it. All dun. Its a quick way to get a nicely painted model on the board. Its not going to win any Golden Demons, but it will look better than 90% of the stuff out there.



  1. You're absolutely correct in that last statement - an effective method, that produces decent models. I'm tempted to follow your paint scheme when I paint my Orks, but I've recently had an issue with Army Painter Strong/soft tone, in that when it dries there is a bright white residue in the deepest areas of shadow - is this something that you've come across?

    1. Are you diluting with water? Minerals in the water can cause this

  2. I had the same problem but with GW's Agrax Earthshade when I thinned it with water. It's why I use the Army Painter inks - they seem to take water just fine.